New knitwear store takes center stage in luxury fabrics – Robb Report

Last year’s lockdown illustrated what idle hands really are getting. Some have kneaded sourdough, others put together puzzles, and many have knitted, crocheted, and macrame over the days. From Bernie Sanders’ inauguration mittens to Tom Daley’s poolside crafts at the Summer Olympics, knitting has gone from grandma’s hobby to fashionable fascination . Even if you haven’t picked up the needles yourself, there’s a new guard of knit-focused brands that are reinvigorating handcrafted classics. Sweaters, long rejected as clothing choristers, now occupy center stage.

It’s not that the category has been reinvented as much as it has been re-evaluated. While a beautiful cashmere sweater is perfectly nice, it’s a garment that usually lacks the sensuality of a well-cut suit or swagger coat. But does it always have to be?

Leorosa wool cardigan, $ 340.

Leorosa

“We wanted to take a look at cardigans, things that people maybe perceive as old-fashioned, and reinterpret how they could be more modern or worn differently, or just be the piece in their own right,” says designer Julian Taffel, who along with the co-designer Paolina Leccese, imbued the silhouettes of completely traditional sweaters with a playful nod. Their brand, Leorosa, launched in 2019 with a range of timeless-looking sweaters – a v-neck lambswool cardigan and gilet for him, a merino and cashmere crew-neck cardigan for her – but rendered with unexpected pops of color on the pockets or trim: camel and tomato red, lime yellow, loden green and seashell pink. The results retain the charm and portability of Mister Rogers’ staple, but with an unerring sense of freshness.

Alanui wool cardigan

Alanui wool cardigan, $ 1,950.

Alanui

Sweaters from fashion brands usually fall into one of two camps – stilted or puffy – but this new generation of knitters manages to strike a balance between the two. Nicolò and Carlotta Oddi d’Alanui took the intricate jacquard weaving know-how of their native Italy and applied it to southwestern patterns, taking inspiration from everything from Navajo blankets to bandanas. Their Baja-effect cashmere cardigans, each of which takes at least 11 hours to handcraft, have quickly become a favorite of the 1% beach-bum ensemble. Likewise, British brand Country of Origin draws inspiration from the rich British heritage of knitting techniques, raising the bar higher on Guernsey and Arans with graphic or Japanese color blocks. boro patchwork. “All clothing is hand tied, which is a skill that is dying,” says brand co-founder Ben Taylor. “We want to preserve these skills and we thought the best way to do that was to change the way people perceive British knits.” It’s a change that goes beyond simply updating traditional designs; Given the casualness of men’s clothing in recent years, which the pandemic has sparked, knitwear has taken on new importance in the men’s wardrobe.

Rubato camel hair turtleneck

Rubato camel hair turtleneck, $ 324.

Rubato

“It’s become more and more essential,” says Oliver Dannefalk, half of the duo behind Swedish knitwear brand Rubato. “It used to be something you just picked up along the way because you had to have it for the overlay.” Rubato launched in 2019 with the founders’ version of the perfect woolen V-neck, featuring a deeper V, shorter body, and more boxy fit than anything they could find from contemporary manufacturers. Made in Scotland in a range of stylish neutral hues, this is the kind of garment that works well for the fluid dress codes of the moment.

Whether it’s replacing a shirt and tie, dressing up a suit, or boosting old jeans, there are very few opportunities to wear a great sweater. is not appropriate. “It’s that classic, hard-wearing everyday piece,” says Rubato co-founder Carl Pers. “Your favorite sweater, the one you put on when you’re not quite sure what to look for that day, that’s what we want to do. “


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