Chopova Lowena Fall 2022 Ready-to-Wear Collection
Chopova Lowena could easily rest on her laurels. The brand’s snap skirts are a runaway success, worn around the world by Fashion Week guests, pop stars and Real Housewives. No less than six vogue editors carry the brand’s monogram chain necklaces, and their growing categories of blouses and bags have prepared the company well for the future. But Emma Chopova and Laura Lowena aren’t the type to take it easy. In their Deptford studio, overflowing with taffetas and fleeces, Chopova says: “Every season we try to do new things, things that are not like us. It’s interesting to see how we can appropriate new categories.
For fall 2022, they tackled the suit. “Skirts were liked most by Chopova Lowena, obviously,” Lowena says. Theirs consist of a rounded double-breasted jacket and a pleated miniskirt, in unsold orange checks or unsold silky synthetics. Necklaces and bracelets are laced into the collars and cuffs to make the pieces tinkle and sparkle.
The incorporation of metal chains into their clothing stemmed from their research into medieval clothing. Each season, the designers pit a folksy reference against a sporting reference – this time they landed on ice hockey versus Renaissance Faire, extrapolating knotting and knitting details and weave-like finishes and titled the “kiss the hare’s foot” collection, a medieval expression used, by Chopova, “for when you miss dinner but savor the leftovers.” (A reference to their deadstock practice.)
The romantic and brutal spirit of their collection works well, CL boys and girls existing in an in-between. They don’t look pretty in their laced flocked dress with white briefs. They are not strange in an “octopus” skirt in taffeta made up of 8 checked panels, each tied at the bottom, worn with a fluffy floral cardigan, the brand’s first serious foray into knitwear. They’re not silly either, even if bunny-eared hoodies and cartoon-print tops upload the childish humor. Standing boldly in their velvet tops and hardcore metal pants, they are something else, a new aesthetic, a new spirit of furious eclecticism that could only be Chopova Lowena.
This is the genius of their work: it simply cannot be confused with anything else. Even the brand’s most basic piece, say a pair of leggings, comes in a wacky color combination and is covered in flowers. Perhaps it’s the uniqueness of each piece that makes CL’s group of fans and customers feel like a community, a patch of funky flowers a signal to others knowing that you too aren’t going to take it easy, but on the contrary, every day you will try to be magically new.